Photography by Jon Adams

Apr 2011

Gopro Hero Cameras

Have you ever wanted a camera to just wear? Just want to let a camera roll while you do something you love? I have, My wife gave me a GoPro Hero camera for my birthday this year. (Thank You my Dear!) I've used other wearable cameras before but this one is far and away better than all the rest I've use. It is the largest I've used, it's the best. I really like the wide angle lens and the vast variety of mounting options available for it. Here are some quick videos I made with this camera. Be sure to jump into HD to really see what it looks like. The smaller versions don't do it justice.

Free Photography Class

Better Pictures with any camera!
I'm teaching a class this thursday at Cory Adams Photography Studio in American Fork. It's at 6pm. We're going to be looking quickly at how the camera works in order to understand what we can do to get great exposures with our cameras, sometimes we have to trick the camera to get what we want.

We're going to look at the qualities of light, and how we can make pictures instead of just take them. We'll have some treats and a giveaway too! I think this is going to be a lot of fun!. I'm hoping this class works out well, if it does I want to do an advanced class on DSLRs and what makes them more powerful than their smaller counterparts.

Hope to see you there!

To Blur or Not to Blur? – Make it Pop

We all know the F-stop has the biggest effect on depth of field with focal length being the other big part of being able to blur out the background and make the subject pop out of it. Did you know in some situations you can actually blur the background with the shutter speed? The technique is called panning and it actually comes up quite a bit. Anytime you can smoothly track your subject in motion and keep it's relative location in the frame the same you can drag the shutter, keep the subject sharp and the background with have a motion blur to it. This will make your subject look like it's moving, How fast depends on how slow your shutter speed is vs how fast the subject is moving. A tripod with a pan head can help you get there.

Sometimes it's nice to stop the action and other times it's nice to be able to blur the background out this way.

Quick Tip, When panning, center yourself on where you want to end up and twist at the waist back to where the subject is coming from. So when you see the subject in the viewfinder, pick a point in the camera. Perhaps a focus point and put it on a specific point of the subject. Then keep them lined up as you untwist and shoot. Set your camera into burst mode and fire away while keeping those points lined up. Play with some different shutter speeds until you find one that works well for you. It's fun! give it a try! Click on the images for a larger view.
Jon Adams

Super Ultra Macro Photography — 105VR and 50mm Combined

Binoculars Backwards. Have you ever turned binoculars backwards and looked through them? It's always fun how far away everything gets, yet remains focused. You can apply much of the same process to lenses on your camera. You can take a 50mm and mount it to your camera backwards to your camera and you've got a close up lens. I bought an Fmount to threaded 52mm adapter ring for a couple bucks on amazon. You can take it one step farther if you have a macro lens already you can mount your 50mm (or other lens) front to front on the macro. In there pictures here I have my 105mm macro and my 50mm screwed together. You can now focus really closely on a subject, much closer than you can with either lens alone. Magnification factors jump through the roof. Below are some images I shot with this setup.

I cranked down the aperture shooting at F39 and used my little soft box with an SB900 to supply the light. Here is a setup shot. When you are shooting with this kind of magnification the depth of field drops way down to nothing so by pushing the aperture as small as I could make it was the only way to get anything to stay sharp in the frame. It's also super important to try to make what you want sharp as parallel to the film plane as possible.